CONTEMPORARY TIMES

The fashion in the contemporary times is very diverse. The way of dressing was associated with interests. Specific clothing has many subcultures:

                                                                        EMO

                                                                         PUNK

                                                                      SKINHEADS

                                                                       SKATES    

     

                                                                           GOTH

 In the contemporary clothes should be comfortable and practical. Designing clothes refers to the past eras. The fashion forces the colors, types and combination of clothing. The people are looking for original clothes.

THE FASHION IN THE XX CENTURY

In 1909 a French designer Paul Poiter offered a dress with a ribbon. The dress stressed parts of the breast line. It drifted to the ground.
In 1909 Paul Poiret designed "heremki" - the first wide trousers at the ankle.
In the 20s of the XX century the fashion icon was Coco Chanel. She showed in a smart, sailing trousers. Her stylization was comfortable and fashionable.

In the 60s of the XX century trousers were worn freely. Very popular were the trousers with higher waist, a jacket and silk blouse.
People often wore imitation jewellery. Coco Chanel introduced imitation pearls.

THE FASHION IN THE TURN OF XIX AND XX CENTURY

 In the turn of XIX and XX century sport became popular. The dressmakers sewed clothes for free time activities.

Women's clothing:
The woman's clothing was a big challenge for designers. The women wore long dresses.

Men's clothing:
The men began wearing "pumpy" - the shorts of which the basis was men sports clothing. At the end of the 60s of XX century appeared a jacket in the "Norfolk" style.

THE FASHION IN THE SECOND HALF OF THE XIX CENTURY

 In the second half of the XIX century what was important in the dissemination of new styles in fashion were business expenses, where you could buy ready clothes.
 

Woman's clothing:
 The parts of women's clothing:
- turnina: type of dress with a high raised back. This effect was attained by using a special frame or a panel at the waist.
- tight corset: the tight corset gave the figure a slimmer shape.

Men's clothing:
 The parts of men's clothing:
- jacket: The jacket wasn't formal clothing. It enjoyed great popularity.
- shirt collar: the shirt collar belonged to the most volatile elements of men's fashion. In the 80s of XIX century the collar was flat. In the early XX century it attained even 10cm of height.

THE FASHION IN THE FIRST HALF OF THE XIX CENTURY

Woman's clothing:
Woman's clothing was patterned after the French. The dress was fast pressed in the waist. In years 1830 - 1840 the sleeves reached maximum sizes. On the head they wore "kupotka" - a type of a hat bound under the chin.

 
 Men's clothing:
Men's clothing was patterned after the English style.
A man wore a tailcoat with a wide collar. A high collar was wrapped with a tie. Under the sole of the shoe were straps to the lower legs to prevent them from raising up. They wore a cylinder on their head. Long whiskers grew on the cheeks.

ROMANTICISM

Woman's clothing:
Women's shoes were laced after the Romans.The dress had a high waist. Deep neckline covered the flange or wide, lacy collar. The hands were covered in excess of the wrist sleeves or long gloves. The front part of the head was decorated with a wide brimmed hat. The puffed sleeves changed in "gigots" - puffed sleeves from the shoulder to the elbow and very tight from elbow to the wrist. The hairstyles were decorated with diadems. The headwear was "bonnet" - a combination of a cap and hat.

Men's clothing:
Men wore a tailcoat. They wore a corded corset under the waistcoat. The shirts didn't have a collar. A man wore long trousers "pantalony". It made him abandon boots and bring in "sztiflety." Fashionable men's clothing was supplemented with a tie, gloves and a walking s
tick.

CLASSICISM
During the French Revolution brocades, lace and wigs disappeared. Among the people the informal prevailed.

Men's clothing:
The men started with long, narrow trousers, which became an essential element of clothing. The trousers were put in high shoes.

Woman's clothing:
In clothing of women frills, collars and embroidery dominated. The muslins were replaced with all fabrics of vibrant colors. The waist was lowered. The skirt and dress widened downwards.

BAROQUE

The Baroque moulded historical events. Big influence on clothing of the period had the Spanish fashion of renaissance and gothic.
Woman's clothing:

 In the Baroque appeared "mantual" top coat cut in one piece material. "Mantua" was kept on the arms. It covered partially the neckline. The clothing was modest and more dignified.
The hairstyle for women equaled the wig - "fontange": it was a lacy bonnet to which ribbons were attached.
In Baroque dress removed the flange, which resulted in the unveilling of the neck and neckline.
Very important in the dresses were puffed sleeves tied with ribbons - "viraro".
In the Baroque a baggy night gown was introduced.

Men's clothing:

In the Baroque evolved three silhouettes of men:

- The silhouette of a musketeer:

 Characteristic feature was:
- white large shirt with a big collar,
- wide cuffs with lace,
- wide froch coat, trousers wide at the top, tied below under knees with ribbons or a bow,
- felt hat decorated with feathers.

- The silhouette of "Rhenish Count":

 The characteristic were Rhine trousers with a loose-fitting shirt. Men wore a lace shirt with puffy sleeves, a short vest, and silk stockings.

- The silhouette of "szustokor":

 Fitted frock-coat. The sleeves were to the wrist. The clothing had a lot of buttons, clips.

Very popular were wigs (allonge).
On the head they wore a hat with a triangle.

RENAISSANCE
Men's clothing:

 The silhouette of a renaissance man is this:
- heavy,
- full puffy arms,
- standing square,
- thin legs.
The elements of men's clothing: - shirt,
- trousers,
- stockings,
- shoes,
- doublet,
- wams/jerkin: fitted waistcoat,
- "kryza": the jewellery,
- "szuba": a loose cape,
- beret: a cap or hat

The renaissance shirt had long sleeves and often a handstand.

 The trousers: - "trunk hose": short trousers up to half thigh
- "pludry": loose trousers with a cut
- "cannions": fitted to leg trousers
- "venetians": trousers up to below knees

The stockings were fitted to leg. The stockings were made with knitwear.
 The shoes were soft, comfortable, fitted to foot. They were made with fat, decorated embroidery fabric. The characteristic shoes were "kuhmaul": the shoes around wide, square toe.

 The doublet to put on a shirt was the caftan zip front, with indented sleeves.

 The "wams/jerkin": fitted sleeveless waistcoat .
On the head men wore a flat beret with a brim flourished to the top.

RENAISSANCE
The renaissance is the time of elegance and wealth. The characteristic of this epoch was the rivalry of the courts of England and France.

 Women's clothing: The figure of a woman in renaissance looked like a sandglass with a narrow waist and strong arms. Cuts dominated in women's clothing.
The women's clothing consisted of four layers: - shirt,
- dress bottom,
- top dress,
- cape
The dress was split into: - the upper part,
- the bottom part,

The neckline was mantled with a "partet". Woman's hair was decorated with ribbons, string of pears and also veils, berets and hats.
On dresses women wore capes (mantello).

At the beginging of the renaissance they wore simple shoes that fit the foot.Most were "chopine" or shoes with high contours.

The women often wore "zibellino" - the marten fur.
The shirts which women wore were made of linen, wool, but sometimes the shirts were made of cotton and silk. The shirts were worn on the naked body.
In the renaissance stockings matched the shape of the leg.
The shirt was called "camiciola" - it richly decorated the jacket.
Moreover, to widen the bottom of the "verdugado" - additional shirt with fine linen was worn. The skirt was sewn in hoops.
On the shirt there was a dress without sleeves.
On the arms women put on a "partlet" - the bolero tied with ribbons under the armpits.

 The top dress often was laced.
The sleeves of the dress were decorative and puffy.
The women often wore dublets - vests, which were fitted to the waist.